CET Student Correspondent
Okay, so being gluten-free in Italy really isn’t as bad as the title suggests but I had to pull you in somehow! Actually, eating gluten-free here has been pretty easy. Before coming, I freaked out a little bit wondering what I was going to eat in the land of pasta and pizza. Gluten is hard enough to avoid in the US and I couldn’t imagine what it would be like for me in a carb-laden country, such as Italy, for four months. I did a little bit of research before coming overseas, however, and discovered that celiac disease is the most common genetic disease in Europe with 1 in every 250 Italians diagnosed with it. Interestingly enough, although the disease is hereditary and most Americans are descendent from European ethnic groups in whom diagnosis is common, only 1 in 4700 are diagnosed. Researchers in the US think that this is because our doctors are uneducated about the disease and are even less skillful in testing for it. In Italy, not only are all children screened for this asymptomatic disease before they enter kindergarten, but all adults who have been diagnosed with celiac disease are given two days a month, paid leave from work, to grocery shop! I couldn’t believe it!
For those of you who have never heard of celiac disease, it is an autoimmune disorder, like rheumatoid arthritis or type-1 diabetes, triggered by the ingestion of gluten found in such products as wheat, barley and rye. Reactions take place in the intestines and can cause all sorts of gastrointestinal symptoms and also prevent the proper absorption of food and nutrients that can, in the long run, lead to serious health consequences. The only known cure is quite simple however, and requires those diagnosed to follow a gluten-free diet, a lot easier said than done.
Although I don’t have a very serious condition and it is SO hard to resist cake sometimes, I knew I would have to be careful about outright loading up on lots of breads and pastas. Because celiac disease is such a common disease here, the ‘Farmacia’s are the best place to start the search for gluten-free foods. Upon walking into one for the first time, I was almost moved to tears. A whole wall was covered with nothing but gluten-free breads, pastas, snacks, cookies—it was heaven.
It is also relatively easy to find gluten-free products in grocery stores. The Conad stores have a special little section with products labeled ‘senza glutine’ (without gluten) while other stores make you search within the different sections—crackers, pasta—for items labeled as such. Everything is delicious—in fact, maybe even better than their gf counterparts in the States.
Going out to eat is a little trickier. If you are looking for celiac-friendly foods, the most important phrase to know is “Sono celiaco,” meaning, “I am a celiac.” Most restaurant owners and waiters will go out of their way to accommodate your condition; some even have specific dishes prepared without gluten, but in other restaurants it is best to stick to a risotto dish—which are quite common—or potatoes as a side. If you are looking for pizza, the best place in Florence is Ciro & Sons. As with many of the gluten-free friendly restaurants in Italy, you will need to call ahead a day in advance to make sure they know you are coming and are aware of your dietary needs but their pizza is AMAZING and is so worth making special plans to go.
My gluten-free experience in Italy has been incredible so far, and I find myself relieved that I don’t have to explain over and over again to shopkeepers or wait-staff in restaurants what my condition is or why it is so important that I don’t eat gluten. Italians are incredibly well educated on this front and all I have to do is squeak out the phrase ‘senza-glutine’ and I know I’ll be taken care of. I can’t say the same for when I go back to the States but maybe, eventually, I’ll be able to.
Interested in learning more about living gluten-free in Italy? Visit the webiste of the country's national association of celiacs or a list of tips, resources, and restaurants all over the country serving GF-Friendly menus!