The Catania Fish Market

The Catania Fish Market is like nothing I have ever seen before. To try to get an idea, some have described it as the best fish market in the world. When we arrived in Catania, Sicily we were told about the fish market, but honestly I did not know what to expect until I arrived. The fish market is opened Monday through Saturday from the morning until 2pm. Friday morning, as we started out on our walking tour around Catania, all I heard from other groups was how unique the experience was. Finally we made it to the Piazza, and tucked behind it - not quietly may I add - was a mob of people. The smell of fish was spread throughout the square even before entering but got even stronger the closer we got. There were fish, lots and lots of fish. Sea creatures I had never seen before or even knew existed. At each stand were the Sicilians yelling, I do not even know what, trying to sell their fishes or just to get the attention of the people walking by.

The Sicilian Fisherman was unique to any other fisherman that I have encountered in the past. He wanted me, especially since he knew that I was American, to take his picture. The fisherman wanted to show you what they had, even though they knew that you were not buying fish. They would pose for pictures and smile as we flashed our cameras when walking by with fascinated looks. The fish had just been caught that day or night before and were probably as fresh you can find. Each stand too was very different. One man might have caught a thirty-pound fish, while the man next to him was selling a bucket of Sardines. Some of the fish did not even look like fish. For example, one was probably three feet long but it was metallic silver coiled. To not get too graphic about the gory details, it really made me appreciate the process that was involved from catching the fish, to selling the fish at the market, to preparing the fish either at home, and then to enjoying it.

Even if you do not like fish, or are a vegetarian, I would strongly recommend visiting the fish market if you ever visit Catania. It was much more than just the selling of fish and other sea animals, but was an insight to the Sicilian way of life. They were proud of who they were and expressed this through the fish that they caught. While I am not an expert by any means, and have only been to a handful of fish markets before this trip, I can say that this was definitely the most unique and exquisite market that I have ever seen.

Caroline Passano, Vanderbilt University

CET Florence Student Correspondent, Fall 2011

Venice Off the Beaten Path

Last week my Imagery and Public Space class went to Venice for a day trip. Lucky for us, our professor, Dr. Steer is from Venice, so while I had absolutely no clue where we were walking, it was nice to not be staring at map.

Other benefits of having a professor from Venice include seeing lesser-known artworks, or perhaps lesser found works of art because as the title of this post suggests, this was a tour “off the beaten path.”

Fun Facts:

There are winged lions all over the city, the symbol of St. Mark.

Venice is shaped like a dolphin, and miraculously standing on stilts above water. We had beautiful weather, but I imagine that when it rains or floods, you may need a boat tied to your front door.

Arriving into Venice by train, the city seems to rise up out of the water, and you can only begin to imagine what inside might be like. Dr. Steer met us at the train station and we were off to start what would become a day packed with art everywhere we turned (which I have come to learn is not unusual for Italy).

The streets are winding, and while one minute you can be standing in a narrow alley in the shade, within the next few steps you may emerge into a wide piazza filled with pigeons going haywire with the sun full force on your face. Filled with darks and lights, the city itself seems to mirror the chiaroscuro that is so common in the region’s art.

Our Route:

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

(houses Titian’s breathtaking Assunta of Mary ascending into the heavens above the high altar. With the light streaming in, there is so much gold your vision starts to swim).

Scuole Grande di San Rocco

The confraternity meeting house, again we find the balance between the sacred and the secular in canvas paintings by Tintoretto that cover the entire ceiling and walls. Supposedly, the Baroque master of the chiaroscuro technique, Caravaggio, takes his inspiration from Tintoretto, and no wonder because the sense of drama due both to the size of the canvas and the scene is palpable.

After lunch we took a gondola ride crossing the canal to get to our next stop! There were 12 of us, plus one man with a massive Ikea bag, so we held on tightly when we were informed that falling over was not uncommon…having seen the James Bond movie, I knew I probably didn’t want to swim in that water.

Basilica di San Marco

St. Mark’s Church, built to house the relics of St. Mark, was constructed in the Byzantine tradition and covered in glittering, gold mosaics.

Here we are overlooking the Piazza San Marco.

Chiesa San Zaccaria

A convent to house the city’s wealthiest unmarried daughters. Most went kicking and screaming, and one of the girls even went so far as to sneak her boyfriend in…where he lived in the underground tombs. Now that’s dedication.

San Giorgio de’Schiavoni

Another confraternity meeting house, but much smaller than San Rocco. Here were scenes of St. George battling the dragon and saving the princess.

After a water-taxi ride to the train station (I recommend taking some Dramamine), we all left Venice talking about when we were going back. Sometimes feeling lost is a good thing, and in Venice, it is.

Ciao for now!

Clara Martin, Vanderbilt University

CET Florence Student Correspondent

Fall 2011

Weekly Newsletter, October 3rd

Newsletter: October 3^rd – 9^th

CET Events

Monday, Oct. 3^rd:

- CET v. Accent soccer game at 7:45pm (meet Anna in Via Giusti, 21 at 7:25pm).

Tuesday, Oct. 4^th:

- Drawing Class onsite at Chiostro dello Scalzo (9.30am)

- European Banking museum visit, Palazzo Strozzi (meet at CET at 9am)

- Medieval Art and Architecture Site Visit (meet at the Duomo at 1pm)

- CET v. Gonzaga soccer game at 8:25pm (meet Anna in Via Giusti, 21 at 8pm)

Wednesday, Oct. 5^th:

- ICH Make Up Class from 2 – 3:30pm. Meet in via Georgofoli at 2pm (in front of the olive tree).

Thursday, Oct. 6^th:

- Group Aperitivo at 7pm (activity TBC)

Events in Florence

Gucci Museum:

- Gucci just inaugurated a new museum located in Palazzo della Mercanzia (in piazza Signoria next to the Palazzo Vecchio). Entrance fee 6 Euros. The museum also holds a bookstore and café.

Tuesday, October 4^th:

- Flo’ Party, 9-11pm, Palazzo Strozzi: Party with deejay – chance to see the two Palazzo Strozzi Exhibits ‘Money and Beauty’ and ‘Declining Democracy’ for free! Please register at www.flonthego.com/party

Looking for something different to do? Check out the ‘Piazzale del Gusto’ in Viale Michelangelo, 61 (google map) This open air bar/restaurant describes itself as a “permanent food fair” that every 15 days changes its menu. For the next two weeks you can sample the offerings of the “fried food fair”, with cheap food and drinks for all.

Newsletter: September 19th – 23rd

CET Events

Tuesday, Sept. 20th: Medieval Art and Architecture Site Visit (meet at the Duomo at 1pm)

Wednesday, Sept. 21^st: Renaissance Art and Architecture Site Visit to the Bargello (meet at the Bargello at 8:25am)

Thursday, Sept. 22^nd: Medici class site visit: Medici Riccardi Palace and San Lorenzo Basilica (meet in front of Palace in via Cavour 1 at 2pm)

Sunday, Sept. 25^th: Corri La Vita 5k run/walk for breast cancer reaserch.

Events in Florence

Monday, Sept. 19^th and Tuesday Sept. 20^th, 9pm: ‘Cinema Giovane’ Film Viewing of “Tutta La Vita Davanti” (Monday) and “La Giusta Distanza” (Tuesday) In Italian with English subtitles. 9pm at the Palazzo Giovane, Vicolo Santa Maria Maggiore 1 (near Piazza Repubblica). Great opportunity to see and discuss some Italian contemporary cinema. Two actors from the film will be present for a discussion after the viewing!

Tuesday, Sept. 20^th: ‘Music in the Markets’ – see a live concert paying tribute to Italian singer/songwriter Rino Gaetano. Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio at 9pm.

Wednesday, Sept. 21^st: Travel Workshop with Rick Steves' son Andy for all international students. Palazzo Giovane, 9pm. Free aperitivo for the first 30 people who RSVP: info@wsaeurope.com.

Thursday, Sept. 22^nd: Welcome Day, 2011 at the Palazzo Vecchio. Come to this ceremony welcoming Florence's study abroad students to the city. 5:30pm

Friday, Sept. 23^rd – Sunday, September 25^th: ‘TeatriAperti’ Festival. Purchase the ‘TeatriAperti” card for 6 Euros and receive free or reduced entrance into dozens of special events and performances. Ask Anna for info about where to buy the card.

A Traveler's Guide to the Cinque Terre

If you are visiting Italy long enough to travel beyond Rome, Florence, and Venice, a must-see would be to go to the Cinque Terre towns. Cinque Terre, translated literally to mean five lands, are a combination of five towns on the northwest coastal line in Italy. They are small towns that are linked together by mountain paths while overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Because of the beauty between the land and sea, they are a central tourist attraction for those who wish to hike or be on the beach. This past weekend we all went and explored what I would call one the seven wonders of Italy. Here is a little bit about our journey and some words of advice for the future.

We started out in Riomaggiore, the first town, and began our hike with a lot of other students and tourists. The hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola was quiet easy. Honestly it did not even seem like we were hiking. Once we got to Manarola we explore the town and walked around to find the best views. It was amazing to see the just how colorful Italy actually is. Unfortunately the trail from Manarola to Corneglia was closed so we jumped on the train to Corneglia. What is so nice about the Cinque Terre is that it is accessible for everyone, especially non-hikers. The train ride was about 3 minutes long and runs pretty frequently. Corneglia was probably my favorite town. It was small and quaint, filled with great little restaurants and fruit and gelato stands. Before starting the hike we walked down to the Marina. This was the best decision! However getting to the Marina was easier said than done. We walked down the mountainside and it was so steep that it took longer to hike down than it did to go back up it. The beaches aren’t like the American beaches with white sands, rather they were all rocks. When we finally got to the bottom I was able to see the water, which was so clear. It tempted me too much, that I couldn’t resist it and jumped in. This is my best suggestion that I have for anyone hiking the Cinque Terre: leisurely walk through the towns so that you can explore the towns and go swimming! It was amazing! The water, which was extremely salty, was excellent for floating. After that sidetrack we really began the hike. We weren’t just eased into it either.

The path from Corneglia to Vernazza was not too difficult but definitely had some hills. What I found so incredible about the hike was that when it would get difficult, all I had to do was look to my left and there was just such an amazing view that I would almost forget that I just hiked up the mountain. While hiking we saw all sorts of things! Women were hiking in heals, ballet flats, dresses, and just their bathing suit. Meanwhile I saw men in jean pants or just their speedo bathing suits. You could spot out the Americans because they were in their running shorts, tee shirt and backpack. We made it to Vernazza and took about an hour break to regroup and relax. The hike itself was only an hour between each town, but it takes all day because the towns were irresistible and very unique. Finally we started the last leg of the hike to Monterosso. This was the longest part and probably the hardest because the beginning was a lot up hill. However when you go up a hill, you always get to go down. On our final part it was interesting to see other couples walking and their reactions. Many older couples were hiking, and a few made beware remarks. In one case this poor woman would have probably wanted to be anywhere but hiking, but was being pulled along by her husband. Her husband was fast and wanted to move quickly, while she struggled to make it up. He would wait and pull her along. The whole time we were behind her, as we could not pass her with her husband blocking our path. Between the pressure of her husband and us tailing right behind, she was very relieved to reach the bottom. Once we reached the peak of the mountain, the downhill part lasts about 30 minutes. Along the way there were a few stands selling lemonade from their vineyards. The men would take the lemons, squeeze them, add water and sugar and mix it up and then serve it. It was very refreshing and highly recommended. Finally we made it to the bottom, feeling really accomplished, and tired. We ended with having appetizers on the beach, which could not have been better! Overall the hike is very manageable, but can be steep at points. However the views are spectacular! So if you ever do decide to go, here are some packing essentials:

1. Bathing Suit – to jump in the water

2. Towel

3. Extra Shirt and socks

4. Sunglasses, it is very sunny

5. Hat, to cover your sweaty hair

6. Band-Aids, well… I did fall and it was really embarrassing!

7. Water

8. A Camera!!!

When hiking the Cinque Terre, start from Riomaggiore and work your way to Monterosso. The hill at the end going downhill would have been a terrible way to start the hike! Also when you finish in Monterosso there is a beach to go swimming! The Cinque Terre really give you a feel for the small, remote little towns that are tucked away in some of the most beautiful parts of Italy.

Caroline Passano, Vanderbilt Univeristy

CET Florence Student Correspondent, Fall 2011

Student Correspondent News: Florence According to Matilde

Ciao a Tutti!

(Hello to all)

I have begun my Fall semester here in Florence/Firenze with CET.

Home to Michelangelo, Dante, Galileo, Firenze is chock-full of things to see and do, and is also seems to be chock-full of tourists as well…when we asked our Italian teacher, Matilde, when the tourist season would be dying down, she informed us that it never actually “dies” down. Here is to a semester of fighting camera toting, starry eyed tourists in order to get to class. (But who can blame them? Firenze is incredible, and I feel as though I must look like a tourist every day walking past the Duomo, but Matilde told us that our mission is to “become a local.”)

Things I have learned from Matilde:

Even if you find the “perfect Italian man,” you will probably have to deal with “la suocera,” meaning, his mother-in-law. She advised us girls (there are 14 ragazze in Italian 100) that before we commit to marrying an Italian, we must check to see if he has a mother.

Scarpe=shoes. One of the most crucial words to know here. Every other window is filled with shoes.

Soccer, (or calcio for the Italians), is followed religiously. We found this out when we went to see the Italian National team play Slovenia our first week here.

Thankfully, the Italians won, because if they had not, we may have had to beware of an angry crowd. Matilde also informed us that if on a Monday she was in a bad mood, most likely it was because the Firenze team had lost. (Games are played on Sunday).

Soccer in Italy is not like anything I have ever seen in the states…perhaps the cult following is similar to football, but we do not have a “United States Football Team.”

The entire crowd began to chant “I-ta-li-a, I-ta-li-a” multiple times, yelling at the referee as one, cheering on Mario Balotelli, the forward who has incredible control over the ball at all times.

Here is a picture of Giampaolo Pazzini scoring the first (and only) goal of the match (Mario is number 9).

If I were to interpret this particular moment, Slovenia is the guy in white who knows he is about to be beaten, his hands up in protest as if to say “no! stop! no goal!”

Mario stands off to the side waiting….waiting….wondering if Pazzini is going to make it,

And Pazzini looks like a cross between a pouncing tiger and a pterodactyl.

As you can see, very exciting. From our point of view in the stands.

Also during this week, we climbed to the highest viewpoint of Florence, within the city walls.

Despite the fact that I seem to have two gelatos a day, (un cono piccolo per favore), and that I have taken a semester long hiatus from exercising, I think that all of this walking/climbing/panting/puffing will make up for it.

Once we arrived, the view was incredible.

There’s the Duomo in the distance!!

Side note: from my window in my apartment I can see the Duomo. If you ever get lost…which tends to happen more often than not, try to find your way back to the Duomo. Instead of “All roads lead to Rome,” in Florence, “all roads lead to the Duomo of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Here is the group that climbed up to the viewpoint and took a picture with a replica of Michelangelo’s David, who happens to be one of the more important symbols of Florence. I think I am going to make it my mission to see how many I can find throughout the city. So far, I think this one was number 2 of the Michelangelo copies. There are many other Davids by other artists.

David and the ladies…which is, well, nothing new.

Arrideverci for now!

Until I write again, many, many gelatos later,

Clara Martin, Vanderbilt Univeristy

CET Florence Student Correspondent, Fall 2011

Weekly Newsletter, September 12th - 18th

CET Events

Wednesday, September 14th: Renaissance Art and Architecture Site Visit (meet at the Duomo at 8.20am)

Thursday, September 15^th: Medieval Art & Architecture site visit: Bargello Museum (meet in front of Bargello at 10am)

Sunday, September 18th^th: Passeggiata and Picnic in Fiesole (meet at 11am in Piazza San Marco – bring something for the picnic if you’d like!)

Events in Florence

Tuesday, September 13^th: ‘Cinema Giovane’ Film Viewing of “Noi Credevamo” (in Italian with English subtitles). 9pm at the Palazzo Giovane, Vicolo Santa Maria Maggiore 1 (near Piazza Repubblica). Great opportunity to see some Italian contemporary cinema. The editor, Jacopo Quadri, will be present for a discussion after the film!

Tuesday, September 13^th and Wednesday, September 14^th: Film in English “This is England” at the Odeon Theatre. Showings at 10pm only.

Thursday, September 15^th: ‘Music in the Markets’ – see a live concert with music from the Balkans, BARO DROM ORKESTAR. Mercato dei Ciompi at 9:15pm.

Thursday, September 15^th – Saturday, September 17^th: ‘Nextech’ Electronic Music Festival, Stazione Leopolda. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. Concerts every night beginning at 9.30pm (entrance costs between 18-30 Euros depending on the night and includes one drink).

Why not take some day trips this weekend? Ask Anna for info about the best way to get to places like Siena (a perfectly preserved medieval town), Lucca (to ride bikes around the city walls) or San Gimignano (a small town famous for its “skyline” of medieval towers).